Next step on the vertical stabilizer (VS) is to cleco all the ribs and the fwd spar to the aft spar.
Then match drill everything to everything else. The long drill bit helps here because of clearance issues with the drill.
Seems there is an issue with the RV-10's where the nose ribs of the VS can cause the skin to have a dimple or a bump sticking out where the nose of the rib gets shoved into the front area of the VS. To prevent this the directions have you remove a bit of the nose rib and blend the flanges a bit to smooth the transition. Many have reported doing so and still having issues so I took it all the way to the max with the edge distance of that first hole.
Next remove the blue plastic from the inside of the VS skin.
Then every hole gets a cleco. Love my pneumatic cleco tool!
That is a ton of clecos!
Next is match drilling the holes in the skin to the holes in the skeleton. I am using a reamer instead of a drill. Makes some much nicer and more round holes vs a drill bit. Drills tend to leave a triangular shaped hole.
The reamer is the same diameter as a same sized drill bit except it has straight flutes instead of spiral ones and there is no cutting edge on the tip. The reamer reams only, it does not drill!
So while this looks like nothing happened between the before and after picture, I actually removed every single cleco one at a time and ran that reamer through the holes.
And I did the other side. No visual progress but over 2.5 hrs of work! There are 135 holes on each side of the skin for a total of 270 holes that have been match reamed!
No comments:
Post a Comment