Tools, Consumables and Misc Elevator Stuff

 Tonight I got started by building this break tool from some oak boards and a piano hinge from Lowes.  Wanted it to be nicer than the one I used for the RV-7.  Success!

 This gets used to finish the bend in the trailing edge of the elevator trim tabs.

 You put them in here and squeeze it down just the right amount.

 I had to purchase another scale tonight since I am close to needing to open the black death.  The wife sold the one I used with the RV-7 in a yard sale sometime in the past 10 years.  :(

 Next I followed the direction and got some spray glue for the templates that get glued to the foam rib stock for the foam elevator ribs.

 All glued and drying.

 Then I match drilled two aluminum angles to serve as trailing edge straightening devices.  Not sure if I am going to pro-seal them or use the VHB tape like I did for the rudder.

 Next I countersunk the AEX trailing edge wedges for each elevator.  Somehow I did not do them when I was suppose to.

All cleco'ed awaiting the next step...

Even more elevator riveting...

 Got started tonight clecoing the counterbalance rib assemblies on the elevators. 

 Then I managed to squeeze the rivets that attach the counterbalance rib assembly to the rear shear clip.

 Then I riveted the front spar rivets.  The long snap set gets to these...

 The short snap set does fine with the outboard ones.

 Bucking these was fairly easy, getting your hand and the bar in there just right without kinking the skin is a bit difficult.  Thank goodness for the tungsten bucking bar.

 Next shot these two flush rivets on the top skin.  You can get them from behind by lifting up the corner of the bottom skin.  A bit tricky but doable.  Again thankful for the tungsten bar!  Just don't kink the skin!!!

 Then I squeezed the remaining rivets.  Easy as pie....

 One side all done!

 Next I put in these two blind rivets.  No way to buck these without some sort of exotic bar sticking thru the front spar lightning holes.  No way!  Just go with the blind rivets!  Had to drill out the holes a little bit to allow the MK-319-BS blind rivets to fit in the hole.

All done with these.  They are on the bottom so they will never be seen by most people.