Long smooth strokes. None of that back and forth stuff. Careful not to scratch skin with the edges of the file.
Removing the blue protective film around the areas that will be riveted or worked on. No reason to be precise. Just get it done. I use a rounded hoop type tip in my old soldering iron. Did this for the RV-7 and it does help keep things in better shape in the long haul.
This what it looks like once I pull off the strips.
Used a 90° die grinder with a Roloc/Scotchbrite ripoff tool from Harbor Freight. Used the FINE pad and it worked great for deburring the skin edges. Just be careful and be mindful of which way the wheel is turning and always tilt it so that the pad is running off the edge of the skin otherwise the wheel can grab the skin and make a big old mess out of it.
Have to mark a few holes that don't get work until the emp fairings go on.
I use a cheap Harbor Freight electric screwdriver with a deburr bit adapter to deburr holes.
All that work now scattered about the table.
Like magic, the blue stuff is gone!
Blue stuff!
Deburring the AFT spar. Keep in mind that this is the FINE grade pad. It removes very little material but does a dandy job at smoothing and blending edges as long as you don't get to carried away with the pressure and speed.
Some of the parts have to be done by hand. Maroon scotch-brite pads for hand work.
Deburring the aft spar doubler.
Another 2.5 hrs of work tonight.
So the family is on vacation next week and there will be no more updates till we return.
No comments:
Post a Comment