Elevator Skin Dimpling and Riveting

 First I dimpled the elevator trim cable closeout cover reinforcement plate screw holes for #6 flush screws.

 Then I set out to rivet the countersunk nutplates to the closeout cover reinforcement plate.
I am using these NAS1097AD-3 rivets.  They are considered an oops rivet because they have the shank of a 3/32 rivet but the manufactured head of a rivet a size smaller.  When used as a 3/32 nutplate mounting rivet, you can countersink for the head instead of dimpling the skin and the ears of the nutplate.  The head is so small and thin, it only takes a very slight countersink to make them sit flush.  This lets you install them in some really thin material.

 Here is all the countersink you need.  Normally this thickness of material can't be countersunk for a 3/32" rivet but you can for a NAS1097 rivet due to the thin/small manufactured head.  Notice the one hole toward the top still has plenty of material left after the countersink.  Not knife edged like it would be with a regular 3/32 rivet.

 All the nutplates riveted on...

 The other side.  I did both elevator's reinforcement plates.  I have seen several build blogs/sites where the builder used the wrong kind of nutplate on these.  They used regular nutplates sitting up on top of a #6 dimple instead of countersunk nutplates like these.  Using a regular nutplate sitting up on top of a #6 dimple is not correct!

 Next I used the DRDT-2 to dimple all 4 elevator skins.

And finally I backriveted the reinforcement plate assemblies to the bottom skins of both elevators.